It would be a major understatement to say I have avoided writing this entry. I’ve been in Japan for two days and I realize now I need to write this entry at some point. It would be unfair to all of you who care to read about me if I were to leave you in the dark about what happened in the last few days. I will briefly talk about the tragedy that occurred last week and then attempt to give you a positive entry about China, then I will go into more detail.
If you have been in contact with me and you read my blog you hear all about my roommate Kurt. We ate every meal together and traveled together in every country. Last week he was hit by a drunk driver in Hong Kong when he was trying to get back to the ship. Kurt had become a brother to me. I haven’t been closer to anyone since starting this voyage with Semester at Sea. I think about him and his family every minute of every day since it happened. I would ask that you keep him and his family in your thoughts. I cannot think of anything worse than losing someone who had so much to offer the world. His family is undoubtedly suffering right now on a much larger scale than I am. I would like to try and tell you about China before I get more into this.
The ship arrived in Hong Kong on November 6th. I got to sleep late the night before and by the time I woke up people I was planning on spending the day with had already left the ship. It didn’t matter because I wanted to go solo that day to see what Hong Kong was like. I explored the entire day. I spent maybe 10 hours by myself, bustling about Hong Kong and finding new things. I am absolutely in love with Asian fashion, especially in Japan. In America I had never been able to find one of those sport jacket/hoodie fusion things so I hunted for one of those for most of the day. I see them in every Asian country but even after trying on close to 20 of them I could never settle for one. If no one knows what I am talking about it is basically a hoodie on the inside with a blazer on the outside. I also looked for a white sports jacket. The one I found in Viet Nam was so perfect but I didn’t want to spend $60 on it. I should have just bought it because now I compare everything else to that jacket and I’m never satisfied. Sucks. I went to a super authentic hole in the wall and ate some delicious roasted duck. Right next door was a Ben & Jerry’s! I got a big waffle cone with chocolate fudge brownie on the bottom and chocolate chip cookie dough on top. It was like eating a piece of heaven. I got on a subway a little after the heaven eating and got off at some random stop and spent a few hours there. I had fun.
If you have been in contact with me and you read my blog you hear all about my roommate Kurt. We ate every meal together and traveled together in every country. Last week he was hit by a drunk driver in Hong Kong when he was trying to get back to the ship. Kurt had become a brother to me. I haven’t been closer to anyone since starting this voyage with Semester at Sea. I think about him and his family every minute of every day since it happened. I would ask that you keep him and his family in your thoughts. I cannot think of anything worse than losing someone who had so much to offer the world. His family is undoubtedly suffering right now on a much larger scale than I am. I would like to try and tell you about China before I get more into this.
The ship arrived in Hong Kong on November 6th. I got to sleep late the night before and by the time I woke up people I was planning on spending the day with had already left the ship. It didn’t matter because I wanted to go solo that day to see what Hong Kong was like. I explored the entire day. I spent maybe 10 hours by myself, bustling about Hong Kong and finding new things. I am absolutely in love with Asian fashion, especially in Japan. In America I had never been able to find one of those sport jacket/hoodie fusion things so I hunted for one of those for most of the day. I see them in every Asian country but even after trying on close to 20 of them I could never settle for one. If no one knows what I am talking about it is basically a hoodie on the inside with a blazer on the outside. I also looked for a white sports jacket. The one I found in Viet Nam was so perfect but I didn’t want to spend $60 on it. I should have just bought it because now I compare everything else to that jacket and I’m never satisfied. Sucks. I went to a super authentic hole in the wall and ate some delicious roasted duck. Right next door was a Ben & Jerry’s! I got a big waffle cone with chocolate fudge brownie on the bottom and chocolate chip cookie dough on top. It was like eating a piece of heaven. I got on a subway a little after the heaven eating and got off at some random stop and spent a few hours there. I had fun.
I didn’t go out that night because I had a flight to Beijing the next day and I wanted to be on top of my game. I went with 4 girls: Nina, Alissa, Kasie, and Kelsey. We stayed at a hostel called the 1 Hai Inn. It was the best place to stay. So many travelers stay there. There is a restaurant and a bar inside. There is a courtyard where all the travelers from all around the world meet up and just talk about everything they‘ve done and seen. We were tired and we had to wake up really early to start our tour so we ate at the hostel and hung out in the bar for a while.
They had a flat screen TV that they hooked up to the computer while we were showing each other YouTube videos. I am so obsessed with the SNL skit where they did the Joe Biden/Sarah Palin debate. I quote the Joe Biden part of it daily. For a paper I am doing I had to use a English/Chinese dictionary to interview the staff members at the hostel. At around 1 or 2 in the morning Kelsey and I walked to an ATM and saw a Tea shop across the street that was still open. We went in to get some tea and this man honestly sat at the next table (there were plenty of other tables to sit at) and watched us drink our tea. The next morning we got breakfast before our tour started. I love the 1 Hai Inn so much but I don’t think I have ever waited that long to get food. It wasn’t all that great either. Usually that would make someone miserable but we all loved staying there. If I ever go back to Beijing I want to stay there for as long as possible. When we met our tour guide in the morning I didn’t think she spoke English because she didn’t understand me. The girls told me it was because I was making absolutely no sense. The guide’s name was Rita and she was so much fun. We loved being with her. When the tour was over we wanted her to come to Shanghai with us because it was so great having her around when we were traveling. The first day we went to see all the buildings where the Olympics took place. After that we went to the Ming Tombs and finally the Great Wall of China. I was so stoked to see that damn wall. I did a project on it when I was in 5th or 6th grade and it has always been something I wanted to see. It lived up to every expectation I had. We were the only group to see the sunset on the wall.
Before we went on the trip we almost got put in with the group of 25 other SAS students but I had us put in a separate group. If I hadn’t done that the trip would have been a terrible experience. The other groups had so many people and they were all hearing about Kurt at different times. It would have been so bad if I had to be near them the whole time. That night we had dinner by the wall with a local family. All of the other groups had dinner either with us or near us. I have never seen so much beer in my life. Most people got pretty sloppy that night but it turned out to be a fun time. It was crazy emotional for everyone but we managed to make the best of it. I did my best to stay strong for the girls. They were all friends with Kurt as well and I knew if I held up they would have to. I broke down a little that night but we went up the wall to where we would be sleeping and had a good night. The stars shine so bright when you‘re on that wall. When I was in Namibia sleeping on top of that safari bus I remember thinking I would never see a nicer night sky. This time it was like that but I was so high up that I was able to see everything so much clearer. It was a nice night. The other groups guide, Tony, had way too much to drink and he made me laugh a lot. He called me emperor at one point. I remember seeing him eating some birthday cake by himself because the girls in his group were being mean to him. Poor Tony. The next morning it was cold, damn cold. I was warm when I was laying down but as soon as I got up I was doubting my ability to hike the wall. Two of the girls in my group were too cold to do the hike and went back to the van to wait with Tito. I should explain Tito. None of us, not even Rita, could pronounce our driver’s name. He was quiet and he wore a leather jacket. He just reminded me of a hit man or bodyguard so I nicknamed him Tito. Even Rita started to call him Tito. Mainly we only said this to each other because he wouldn’t know what we were talking about but at one point I said “Tito can you pass the tea” and he turned around and poured me some tea. It made me real happy that he embraced the nickname. Anyways, Alissa and Kasie were too cold to do the hike so they went with Tito to the next village and hung out for the 3 hours that it took the rest of us to hike the wall for a few miles. I believe it was 8 kilometers total. 5 minutes into the hike the sun was beating down on us hard and we were all taking off layers. I felt bad that Alissa and Kasie didn’t come with us. It was so beautiful.
I can’t even believe it’s real. Just miles and miles of an ancient wall. There is one part of the wall in much better condition than the rest. Rita told us that for a few months Japan and China were extremely close and Japan gave them money to repair the wall. They only did this for a short time and as a result there is only about 40 feet of the wall looking like that. Later on there was a part of the wall where I was able to stand in Mongolia and Rita was standing in China. She got real into it when I wanted to take a picture and pretended to be a Chinese soldier fighting against me, an evil Mongolian.
The hike was strenuous and rewarding. After we finished the hike we found Tito fishing in a nearby river. He led us to Alissa and Kasie and we all had one last meal in Beijing. On the flight to Shanghai a flight attendant informed me of an emergency. I had already found out about Kurt two days earlier but had been unable to contact the ship even though I tried multiple times. They didn’t think I found out yet but the woman made the mistake of telling me it was a family emergency. I had a 2 and a half hour flight worrying about that before I realized the number given to me didn’t even work. I tried calling the ship that night at my hostel but again I was unsuccessful. The next day we tried to go back to the ship but it was caught in a storm between Hong Kong and Shanghai. China tried very hard to be a disaster but we endured as best we could. We went to the Shanghai Zoo with all of our bags.
It had its ups and downs. I almost fought a man who was throwing cigarettes at a hippo. I guess it didn’t please him that hippos don’t move much. The guy hit the hippo the face with a cigarette and I honestly wanted to knock him out. I’m not a violent person but something as repulsive as throwing cigarettes at a helpless animal work a rage up in me. The zoo has so many nice animals but no one was looking out for them. There were hardly any exhibits where Chinese people weren’t throwing things at the animals. I don’t know how many of you know this about me but I can’t deal with an animal being poorly treated. I get extremely emotional when it comes to animals. I couldn’t handle it. We went to the zoo mainly to see pandas. Nina is obsessed with pandas, it was her top priority in China. After the incident at the hippopotamus exhibit we were both all teary and she asked me to go ahead to make sure it was safe for her to see the pandas. I went ahead and as soon as I saw them I was smiling. Pandas are the cutest animals ever. I read on a poster near the exhibit that they only spend 2% of the day doing physical activity. We were lucky to be there for that entire time. It made the zoo a worthwhile experience. I love pandas! I have never seen a human face look as happy as Nina’s while she looked at Chaun Chaun. I loved it. I wish there was something I could do about the way the animals are being treated in that zoo. After the zoo we went back to the ship where everybody wanted to talk to me. They had been trying to get into contact with me in so many ways (even though my cell phone never rang except when it had been my parents). I had tickets to see the Shanghai Acrobatics Show so I told them I would do whatever they needed me to do after the show. The show was insane. Most of the people in the show were just kids. It made me kind of sad but it was still a great thing to watch. I don’t know what to think about China. I was taken on stage for one act. They had a guy throwing knives at this other guy and they asked for a volunteer. I jumped up and they took me on stage. I was so excited.
They put a jacket over my head and I would hear a bang or two before they would remove the jacket. Any time they took the jacket away there would be knives in the board I was bound to. After 4 times they put a balloon between my knees and I was right nervous. Afterwards no one really said anything to me like nice job or anything except for a few strangers. I was so pissed when I found out later that night that the knives weren’t actually being thrown at me. It was actually kind of embarrassing. I wish I could just not have such a big conscience. I wish I could just not tell you this part and you could all be like “NO WAY YOU’RE SO COOL!” But no, I have to tell you because I’m a sucker. When they put the jacket on my head the guy’s assistant would come up to me and slam the knives into the board. I thought the purpose of the jacket was so I wouldn’t flinch. I’m still really upset about it. The acrobatics show was amazing nevertheless. We went out to eat and when I got back to the ship it was time to get back to reality. The last day in Shanghai was insignificant and disastrous so I’m not even going to go into detail. It just wasn’t a fun day and all of us started to despise the locals. Everyone was rude.Despite that last day in Shanghai I would say China was great. The circumstances were terrible and I can’t say it was perfect but the choices I made in China were the right choices. The Great Wall is a must see as are Chinese acrobatics. I would recommend the zoo if the animals weren’t being so poorly treated. I might go back to Beijing one day but I don’t imagine going back to any other part of China.
Now I’ll try to get into specifics about Kurt. We got into a petty argument the night before we arrived in Hong Kong. The details of the argument aren‘t important. This was the last time we spoke. The next day he left without me and when he came back to the ship he left without me again. It was the first time anything like this had ever happened. It was the first time in port that we both weren’t fully aware of what the other was doing. Anytime we don’t plan or do something together we at least invite the other to come. We had never got into an argument before so I didn’t know what to expect from him. I just figured he needed time to cool off. I waited up for him that night but he never came back to the room. I assumed he was spending the night in someone else’s cabin or that he got a hotel room. The circumstances were so rare. I don’t recall a single occasion, other than this one, where I didn’t know what Kurt was doing. I found out the next day in Beijing when I was in front of the Water Cube. They didn’t say it was him but I already knew. The girls were all looking at me curious as to what I was so worried about and I couldn’t put the words together. I told them we were all asked to call the ship immediately because someone had died. I wouldn’t have been so sure it was Kurt if I wasn’t told that Shalina was the person who left the message for me. For those of you who don’t recall, Shalina is my LLC (like a resident director at a normal dormitory) and I was with her for most of the night that Kurt hadn’t come back to the ship. I had been talking to her about how crazy it was that Kurt was avoiding me for such a ridiculous reason. The girls all went to call their parents and I stayed in the van to call my mom. I told my mom what I thought but I tried to find some assurance that it hadn’t been Kurt and that it was some weird mistake. I hung up the phone as the girls got back into the van and none of them would look at me. If I wasn’t sure before I was definitely sure at that point. Alissa told me it was definitely Kurt and my mind started racing. I kept thinking about his brother in New Zealand and how close Kurt was with his family. I had never as close to my family as Kurt was with his, I couldn't imagine what they were feeling. Rita asked what we wanted to do and I assured her that we could do the tour and that we would deal with the situation together. It was on our minds the entire time and every time I took a step closer to the ship I dreaded what I was walking towards. They had a new roommate planned for me as well as a new cabin. They had the counselor on standby and my card was deactivated as soon as I got onto the ship. Everyone, especially Shalina, was expecting a mess of a man to get on the ship but they were even more worried about me when they found out how wrong they were. The worst part about this for me is everyone being worried about me. I shouldn’t be getting this attention. I don’t want it and I certainly don’t need it. Please, keep that in mind after you read this. His family is going through something terrible right now, keep them in your thoughts, not me. After I talked to a few faculty that night I learned that Kurt was hit by a drunk driver a few hours after he left a club. It wasn’t odd for him to be walking but usually he had someone sober with him; me. I keep getting flashbacks to Viet Nam when we walked for about an hour at 2am because he didn’t feel like getting into a cab. It happened all the time but usually I was able to convince him to get in the cab. At the very least I would be there to walk him back to the ship. Not only that. but in Hong Kong the streets are confusing, no one speaks English, the drivers are crazy and on top of that Kurt had been drinking all night. There was so much working against him. I pieced together more and more since that night and I feel like I understand what happened more than anyone. I was asked to pack all of Kurt’s belongings because his parents wanted everything immediately. His laptop, unfortunately, broke a week earlier and his 3 to 4 year old journal was kept on the damn thing. I hope they are able to fix it because that journal was important to Kurt. He wrote in it every day and I loved when he would let me read it and even more when he would let me help him with quotes or memories from the different things we did. I asked to speak with his parents before I packed his things. Kurt was doing something special for them, and for his twin brother, in each port. I don’t want to say exactly what he was doing because they might read this but basically he was getting something for each one of them in each of the countries we came to. I asked them if I could keep those gifts so I could continue what Kurt had started and if I could leave his sleeping bag on his bed. Kurt hated the SAS sheets and removed them on the first or second day on the ship. He slept in his sleeping bag on his bed ever since. They gave me permission to leave these things on the ship. Talking to his family was surreal to me. Kurt and I had always talked about the things we would do after SAS and where we would go. I always knew I would meet his family eventually and I was excited about it. Within minutes of the phone call I was reassured of what I always believed in Kurt. He was a result of his family. His kindness, thoughtfulness and good nature. He had no choice but to turn out as good as he did. I have friends like that and I have always been curious as to why it didn’t happen to me in the same way. I love my parents and I am lucky to have them, they’ve always done what they thought was best for me. However, my development has been a result of cause and effect more than anything else. It’s always been about my environment and my situation. My inner dilemma is that Kurt let his family do something for him that I was never open to. We used to talk about how our biggest difference was acceptance and after talking to his parents I am seeing it so much more. I was speechless when the first thing his father said to me was “Vince, how are you doing?” with genuine sincerity and concern. Speechless. After speaking with his parents his mother tells me that Kurt’s girlfriend, Marissa wants to speak with me. I’ve heard about her every once and a while and I used to see Kurt writing e-mails to her every day. I was so unprepared. In that short conversation Marissa that took away any negative opinions I might have ever assumed of Kurt. I’ve been planning his memorial service on the ship and I keep trying to forget that I won’t be at the funeral. If I had the money I would fly to Milwaukee for the funeral but it’s just not possible. Every night people break down when they think about Kurt and so far I’ve been a rock for everyone that needs to see me as one. I haven’t stopped blaming myself for letting him be alone that night and to be honest I don’t think I ever will. Even if I couldn’t have helped I just wish he wasn’t alone. Talking to his parents and to Marissa have been amazing for me. Kurt was surrounded by people just as exceptional as himself.
I will most likely add more pictures and videos to this post.

The aquarium was nice and it had a big tower with great views. After the aquarium we went to a relaxing beach-like area, kind of like a small quay or jetty. Everyone laid out in the sun or went swimming. I get real bored with that kind of stuff.
Luckily the professor on the trip exploited the kayaks. I had never gone kayaking before but I’
I ventured far and wide and found a water park along a beach on another side of the island. On the way back I had to go against the current and it felt so good. I have got to start kayaking, it’s such an invigorating activity.It was tough to move in the kayak they gave me because the paddles were so skinny and the actual boat was rickety as all hell. Nevertheless that was one of my favorite things to do on the voyage so far. The solitude along with the vitalizing workout is too great to explain. That night I went out for a little but I ended up just coming back to hotel to swim. That night I spent a while talking to friends from back home again. The next day we did a few more tourist things. We went to a huge pagoda and saw an enormous Buddha. 


I don't have a picture of it but there was one elephant in the middle of about 20 other elephants that was colossal. There were loads of spring buck and zebra.

At one point we stopped at this huge empty spot that used to be all water but now it’s just a big space of nothing. I know that just sounds stupid but it was actually an extraordinary sight.

